Sat 26th September Dharamshala

We walked into Dharamshala, observing a very different atmosphere; maroon clad monks and ethnic Tibetans walked the streets, chanting wafted out from a temple.
We went to visit the temple that was the home of the Dia Lama and were amazed to find an open courtyard with monkeys running over the scaffolding. Groups of monks moved around the temple and lighted candles filled the area.
One of the things that had caused me to undertake this trip was to make a personal tribute to the tragic and unfair death of a Round Table friend Andrew Lee - a trip such as this would have been the sort of thing he approved of and gave me the motivation to book the holiday last January. Not sure what to do I placed the order of service (from his funeral) on the Dia Lama's throne - I then sat down and watched the scene and shed a tear for the unfairness of it all. I sat for what seemed for a very long time next to a chanting monk and a woman who spent the whole time lying prostate then sitting up. It was a special moment and wanted me to hope that as the buddests believe, Andy may have achieved a reincarnation in another form that would take him on the quest for enlightenment. The monastery then agreed that I could like a candle to mark Andy's death. It ended up being 100!

We left to enjoy my first American coffee in over a week and then bought a few souvenirs before our journey home. It ended u being 15 hours rather than the 12 billed!

Friday 25/9 Jot to Dharamshala

The day started badly, frustrated at the rubbing brakes I decided to adjust my brakes in preparation for the forthcoming downhill. Unfortunately to snap of the end of the spindle that secures the back wheel to the frame. We were stuck or were we. Ancul found a local mechanic who figured out a way to attach a not to the damaged end and the bike was secured. It was a fantastic descent with beautiful views (only marred by the need for a toilet stop - a habitual problem of cycling and camping in the mountains). Chris was nearly hit by a brown coloured stone I had dislodged thundering down the mountain. Towards the bottom we overtook a couple of startled motorcyclists. As the day wore on we started climbing and descending - I’m faster on the climb and Chris is faster on the descent. I made the mistake of suggesting that he should have worked on a faster pedal rate on his ascents, just before my gears started slipping (bad karma). We agreed that Chris should go on until the support vehicle caught us up. It soon caught me up but it took 20 mins to complete the repair - unfortunately most of the best section was downhill and then it took me 45 minutes top catch Chris up (who had a point to prove). I was in such a hurry that I failed to stop for a procession with a monkey god at the lead. After lunch we found the back spindle had come undone and this time couldn't repair it. We limped into the next village where an ingenious mechanic welded it together.
We were then onto a main highway and following lots of discussion about how to spend the rest of the holiday decided that if we continued on our current path we would not achieve our objectives of seeing Dharamshala and visiting Taj Mahal. We decided to head straight for Dharamshala and suddenly it was all over - an anti-climax but the right decision.

We celebrated with a bottle of awful red wine for dinner, wrapped in newspaper drinking out of glasses wrapped in serviettes (hotel had no license).

Wednesay 23/9 Garola to Himalayan Orchards

The day starts with an amazing view of the valley, breakfast and can you believe it donkeys coming through the camp site (one with tissue paper all over a hoof - must have found where Chris went to the toilet the previous evening).
We headed off down the valley toward Chamba, shooting past people on the road and racing buses and lorries on the road. It wasn’t until we were 10KM from Chamba did the support vehicle catch us up. After a soft drink we continues, only to be held up by a stream of traffic stopped behind a land slide. We simply carried our bikes over the rubble and enjoyed a ride down the valley with no traffic overtaking us. We then cycled into Chamba and then up to quite a height in the next valley. Chris, by this time was exhausted and was not amused to hear that he had a 20 minute walk to our accommodate (up the mountain). After what turned out to be a 30 minute walk we turned up at a tropical oasis – Himalayan Orchards (an eco hotel). We arrived at an idyllic setting and were welcomed with tea and a ceremony involving hats and face paint. We appreciated lovely food, a cold plunge pool and a great nights sleep. Picture of sun setting over where we would cycle next day.

(pictures of the camp in the morning and sunset at Himalyan Orchards - a view of where we would cycle next day)

24/9 (heaven to hell) Himalayan Orchards to Jot

Woke at 7 and had tea delivered to the room followed by breakfast of yoghurt, local honey, chapatti and toast - delicious.
After saying our goodbyes it was a 20 minute walk to the bikes and a down an up cycle to Chambra.
We were then treated to a tour of the village temples and then shown the way to the road to Jot. At the temple Chris asked the holy man 'hat is my next step' the holy man answered 'I don't know you and only you know in your heart' He gave a similarly evasive answer to the question 'what is better doing good or happiness?'
The road to Jot proved to be one of the biggest challenges of the holiday - a 5500 ft climb in the searing heat not helped by Chris' knee playing up. But we made it - 6 hours for me. I was surrounded by a crowd at the top - apparently they had never seen a mountain bike come up the hill ) we cheered Chris to the top and he collapsed as a marathon runner might at the end of the race showing the emotion of the challenge. We camped outside a rest house at the top of the mountain, watched am amazing electrical storm ate an amazing meal cooked by Dinesh washed down by a local brew called 10000 (very apt).

22/9 - The meaning of life

Left the camp of Holio expecting a short flattish bike ride - actually it was more like 12K and a 600m ascent. We arrived at out destination Nayagran a Hindu temple overlooking the inner Himalayas (snow on top) to be offered temple food. There was also a wedding going on, Ancus asked if we would like to see it and we agreed. There was a group a women singing as we entered and were invited to join the village elders and holy man in the corner of the temple. Ancur asked if there was anything that I wanted to ask and I asked 'what is the meaning of life? He replied, translated by Ancur, that 'this place (earth) is a very special place and everyone is here for a special purpose' I replied ' how will you know' to which he replied ' you will know in your heart, not what others think. Your heart is full of goodness and when someone else does bad to you you must know that God is in his heart as well'So with that insight we set of downhill for 1 1/2 hours back to Holio where Ancus jumped out in front of us and asked that we cycle slowly because he, the driver and cook were having lunch. Needless to say we ignored this and sped off. They eventually caught up with us 3K past the camp site. We didn't stop there however because Chris wanted a signal for his mobile phone so he could send his blog!! It occurred to me how strange seeking a mobile signal was in the middle of nowhere.Back at the campsite Ancur wanted to camp at the bottom of a cliff on the river bed, I dissuaded him of that idea and we camped at the top of the cliff amongst some trees - Much better .

21st September Bharmour to Holio

7:00 am breakfast followed by a 4 hour drive and into the mountains to Chamba - started cycling at 1:30 after asking the guide how much height we would gain - 200 metres he said!! and so we decided to take a detour along a dirt track which turned out to be a dead end, the mobile we had been given was soon ringing with Acul the guide asking me to turn back.
After tht an uphill and it gets hotter and hotter and a after 2 hours a stop at a rope bridge over the river , which we cycled over and then watched a wedding processession from the village to see the bride get in the back of a public bus and and the groom on the roof!

We continued up and up and up till eventually we came across the car and a tea stop. A lettle futher on we came to a parting of the road - Chris remarked, "there is no way I could go up there" sure enough we were to go that way, up one of the steepest valleys you could emagine. On the say up people were coming out to see us and ask what we were doing - eventually it was so dark we had to stop (and got a lift to the top at 2150M al Balmour.

The cook had arrived by then and tea consisted of am amazing currey and two bottles of Godfather, a particularly henious brew and a really good nights sleep.

19th September Delhi to Pathankot (N. Punjab region)

Landed at about 4am local time and after being introduced our mountain bikes (rather cheap vrsions of what we have at home) we set of with Ancur (our guide) and our driver to Pathankot, a town in the northern most part of Punjab

The journey took 12 hours to cover (circa 300 miles) and took us thrugh mile after mile of paddy field and increasingly erratic driving from the other road users). By the time we got to go for a walk in the town we were witnessing mutple lines of motor rickshaws with motorcycles and cows all coming towards us at the same time. Chaos.

After arrivng at town (27 hours travel) we looked around the local market early evening and visited a local temple. Then it was back for a meal and my blog. So far so good, but the cycling starts in earnest tomorrown (60K) and a camp in the hills. Appparently we will be picking up a cook tomorrow so with the guide and the driver, that will be three looking after the two of us!!

First day

Got to the airport on time thanks to a lift from Lisa- Feeling somewhat excited, almost nervous. its great the technology seems to be working.
TTFN